I've been using the HTC Dream for a couple of weeks now, and it's been pretty good so far. I haven't had to break out any hacker-fu to get anything working. Mostly I just had to download apps to do stuff. The only complaints I have are that battery life is too short, especially when 3G is on, and I can't find an app allowing me to transfer files with bluetooth. If anyone can point me in that direction, I would be much obliged.
I've been holding off for a few months, waiting for other Android devices to come out. The way I see it, Apple just has the iPhone. Android can run on anything else.